Lavender 40/42

As anyone would, I am constantly on the look out for high-quality therapeutic grade oils at a reasonable price. This proves to be a challenge with many oils and sometimes ya just gotta bite the bullet, open the pursestrings and cough up the money.  Lavender used to be one of those oils that I would shell out big bucks for, thinking I was getting a better quality oil from "source A" than "source B."

There are nearly  40 species of Lavender (genus Lavandula),  a member of the plant family Lamiaceae.  Until recently, I had poo-pooed an oil called "Lavender 40/42" thinking it was a blend of lesser quality oils, and opted for "True Lavender," more correctly, the species called  Lavendula Angustfolia or "English Lavender."  I had joined the ranks of the Essential Oil Purists!  However, in doing further research I have uncovered the truth about lavender oils.

 The two primary aromatic compounds in lavender oil are "linalool" and "linalyl acetate." Because nature is ever-changing, fluctuations in weather conditions, soil conditions as well as cross pollination can occur. Therefore identical species of lavender plants grown in the same region can produce varying amounts of these two components from crop to crop. In an effort to achieve a consistent balance of the two aromatic components,  producers of lavender oil will blend oils from two or more species, and/or grown in different regions.  The purpose of the blend is to arrive at the most beneficial levels of Linalool and Linalyl acetate which is 40% and 42% respectively. That way, they and their customers will know the resulting oil will have a consistent fragrance and aromotherapeutic benefits with each batch.

I no longer look at Lavender 40/42 as an "adulterated" or low-quality essential oil.  If you buy oils from a trusted source, you can rest assured that Lavender 40/42 will offer the same consistent benefits with every bottle.

Looking for lavender oil?  Click here for La Bella Cavalla's Organic Lavender oil!

SOURCES

Essential Oil Wholesale Research Library

Everything Lavender

Aromatherapy for Humans and Horses

You walk into a friend’s kitchen just as she’s pulling a loaf of freshly baked bread from the oven, aroma-laced steam curls from the crust as she cuts off a slice.  You had been looking forward to venting about a lazy co-worker but suddenly you are brought back to Grandma’s kitchen as the smell of the bread hits your senses and a warm feeling envelopes you.  Your mood is instantly elevated as you sit down to enjoy a cup of coffee, completely forgetting the woes of the day.

-or-

You’re impatiently standing in line at the grocery checkout, feeling frustrated because several people are ahead of you, it’s 5:30 and you still have to get dinner for your demanding family. After a few moments you find yourself thinking of your favorite grade-school teacher. You smile and wonder why she popped into your head.  Gradually you realize it’s because the woman standing next to you in line is wearing the same perfume that your third-grade teacher used to wear.  It’s not so bad waiting in line after all, as you drift back to happy memories.

 It’s no secret that scents are one of the strongest memory triggers.  What isn’t so widely known is that aromas stimulate a multitude of important brain functions.

Our olfactory system has many purposes.  It can detect hazards. Do you find yourself wrinkling your nose at the smell of spoiled milk or rotting meat?  Your olfactory system knows that those things would not be good for you.  This system is also your primary source of finding nourishment. Ever follow the scent of fresh out-of- the-brick oven pizza, around the corner and into the little bistro? It can even detect pheromones, sending signals to your brain when Mr. or Ms. Right is nearby.

Love at first sight?

Sure!

Olfaction occurs when odorants bind to specific sites called receptors located within your nasal cavity. From there a chain reaction occurs with signals ending up at parts of the brain responsible for smell identification, memory, emotion, and even, self healing. 

Aromatherapy is the practice of using the natural oils extracted from botanicals by either inhalation or by applying to the skin, to enhance psychological and physical well-being, by stimulating brain function. This alternative form of medicine is used for pain relief, mood enhancement and improved cognitive function.
Aromatherapy is gaining ground in human medicine, both physical and mental.  It is also making its way into veterinary medicine, including treatments for horses.

A horse’s olfactory system is far more sensitive than a human’s.  They can discern a multitude of scents in one inhalation, where we might be able to recognize only one or two.  Have you seen your horse carefully sniff out the best pieces of hay while ignoring others? That’s not by accident. So you can imagine that aromatherapy is probably even more effective on horses!

Horses are prey animals and their sense of smell is directly connected to their limbic system, which controls the fight or flight response.

Aromatherapy can therefore be used to alter your horse's state of mind, making them more receptive to handling and more focused for training.

There are two ways to deliver aromatherapy to your horse. One is through application at various points on the body. This method requires a lot more knowledge than I have on the subject, so I am not going to delve into it here. There is plenty of information on the web on the subject.   

The other method is through Inhalation. This  therapy is lot less involved and  you don’t have to worry about skin irritation. True therapeutic grade essential oils are quite potent so even if a small amount of undiluted oil touches the skin it can have adverse effects.  Through inhalation that possibility is less of an issue.

Different horses will react in different ways to essential oils.  Take it slow and start in a quiet place so you and your horse will have less distractions.  Always dilute your oils in a carrier oil.  This will ensure that 1) you don’t use more than you need, and 2) if any of the oil should touch your horse’s skin it will be less likely to irritate.  You can use a variety of carrier oils such as almond, apricot kernel, coconut, olive or sunflower oil. 

Put a few drops of diluted oil in the palm of your hand and rub your hands together.  Put your hands out to your horse, but don’t thrust them into his face.  Let your horse come to your hands.  You will notice that he will inhale through one, then the other nostril. If he doesn’t like that particular oil, he will show no interest or even back away or turn his head.  Keep in mind that he may not want it today, but he might want it another day for another reason.  Horses are very good in knowing what they need.  Allow your horse to sniff all he wants, but discourage licking the oil.  This process can take a few seconds, to a few minutes or longer.  Let your horse be the guide. If he turns away, don't press the issue.  Sometimes they will surprise you by reacting negatively at first, then moments later, come back for a second sniff.

Experiment with different oils and oil blends.  Eventually your horse will come to enjoy these sessions and you may see a better bond or sense of trust from him. Some commonly used oils include: lavender for calming, reducing anxiety; Bergamot for reducing nervousness; Basil for focus; Clary Sage for depression and stress.  You can even mix your oils and spray them on blankets or stall walls to create a soothing environment.  But make sure it’s an oil your horse enjoys.

La Bella Cavalla is expanding our essential oil offerings.  We deal only with reputable manufacturers that provide us with pure, unadulterated oils. 

La Bella Cavalla also carries essential oil diffuser necklaces.  Each one comes with your choice of essential oil, most of which are certified organic. Wear one while working with your horse and watch her reaction.   Of course, you can use our diffuser necklaces for your own well being. Additionally, we carry diffusers that can be placed in your dashboard vents, to disperse essential oil scents into your automobile or truck.

  In our next blog post we will describe several oils and their benefits.   

Totally Turmeric

Turmeric – the homeopathic world has been touting the benefits of turmeric for years. As with most of these alternative therapies, public interest waxes and wanes. Lately it's waxing. And for good reason. Turmeric is credited with a bounty of health benefits. Let's take a look at this remarkable rhizome.
   Turmeric is native to several Asian countries. It is a perennial that can grow up to 3 feet tall. The part of the plant that is mostly used are the rhizomes (subterranean globes from which the roots grow). 

The leaves are also used in cooking. Turmeric has been used for centuries first as a spice and then for its medicinal qualities. It has also been used as a dye. Although typically used in its dried, powdered form, turmeric also is used freshly grated, like it's cousin, ginger.

In the next section, I will discuss Turmeric's reported medicinal qualities. I will preface with the disclaimer that none of the applications have any hardcore scientific proof. (As we know the big pharmaceutical companies are not going to fund researching on something from which they cannot make money). With that said, there have been several clinical studies that have produced positive results. We can also listen to the experience and wisdom of centuries of ancient eastern cultures and at least try it for ourselves. Turmeric does not stay in the system for long, so there is little chance of toxicity due to over use.

Reported Health Benefits in Humans

The active ingredient in turmeric is curcumin, a phytochemical that is known for its effectiveness in treating a variety of conditions. Research suggests that this naturally-occurring phytochemical works even better than commercial pharmaceuticals marketed as treatments for liver and kidney ailments, inflammation, arthritis, heart health, skin conditions and certain cancers. It is reportedly an excellent detoxifier and immune booster. Depending on the source, the curcumin in turmeric can vary. Researchers suggest that to be most effective, your turmeric's cucumin content should not be less than 3%. However, if you cannot find a better grade, you can simply use a larger dose without any adverse effects. 

How to Feed

Feeding turmeric is not terribly complicated. And, as stated above, it doesn't stay in the system long so there is little concern of feeding too much. However, you would not want to waste it. It only takes a a couple of teaspoons added to each meal to garner its many benefits. Research indicates that turmeric performs best with consumed with freshly ground pepper and a fat such as coconut or olive oil. The addition of black pepper and fat improves absorption This blend can be made into a paste that is gently cooked just so it can combine evenly. The mixture can be stored in a jar for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. Suggested ratio is: equal parts of fat and turmeric.  Add one tablespoon freshly ground pepper for every half cup of turmeric.

La Bella Cavalla's Turmeric Blend

La Bella Cavalla has taken a little of this work out of the preparation for you. Our Turmeric Blend includes cold-pressed flax seed, freshly ground organic black pepper and organic human-grade turmeric. The guaranteed curcumin content of the turmeric is never less than the recommended 3%. This blend does not require cooking or refrigeration however it should be kept in a cool, dry area, out of direct light. Sprinkle directly on your horse's food; it may be more palatable if moistened and mixed in. My horses don't mind it at all, in fact, they seem to really like it and lick their dishes clean.  #Bonappetit

Flaxseed For Horses - More than you Bargained For

I have been feeding flaxseed to my horses off and on for years. I knew it could help with hoof growth and produce an amazingly shiny coat, as well as contribute to weight gain, but I never truly understood what a powerhouse it is. Flaxseed has anti-inflammatory qualities, contributes to heart and lung health, boosts the immune system, contains antioxidants, and a whole lot more. However, not all flaxseed products are the same. Some methods of milling, processing and storing can reduce or completely neutralize the numerous beneficials elements. It is wise to educate yourself and make the best choice based on your research.

What is Flaxseed?

Flaxseeds, sometimes called linseeds, are small, brown, tan or golden-colored seeds produced the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum).  History shows that man started cultivating flax as far back as 4000 BC.   From the very beginning, the value of flax was both culinary and textile, since flax fibers could be spun into linen to provide clothing and other products.  Flaxseeds can be consumed whole, but are even more beneficial when sprouted and ground into meal.  Flaxseed contains about 40% fat and is one of the few plant sources of omega-3 fatty acids. It contains approximately 20% protein and 30% highly digestable fiber. The soluble portion of that fiber has many interesting nutritional and functional properties including the ability to bind sand and other foreign material in the digestive tract.   That alone puts it on the top of my list. 

But Wait!  There's more! 

Scientific stuff - you can skip over this if your eyes glaze

 over anytime you look at a periodic table

Flax is an excellent source of potassium and contains lignans, Vitamin E (a biological antioxidant) and the essential fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) an Omega 3. It's important to understand that horses don't need ALA - but they do need the EFAs known as DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) -also found in flax but in lesser amounts than ALA.  However, horses can covert ALA into EFA and DHA.

Most of what we know for fact is based on human studies, but continued research indicates that the same holds true for animals.  Studies with non-human primates and human new-borns indicate that DHA & EPA is essential for the normal functional development of the retina and the brain.  EPA and DHA are essential building blocks for healthy cell membranes. These cell membranes provide critical support for the brain connectivity that supports:

• Healthy memory
• Healthy cognition
• Emotional well-being

Additionally, DHA and EPA promote healthy blood flow, which is essential to optimal brain function and memory retention. Think of omega-3 fatty acids as high quality motor oil for the finely-tuned engine that is the brain.
Clinical studies in humans have demonstrated the benefits of omega-3 fatty acids in renal, respiratory, cardiovascular, dermatological, gastrointestinal and immune-mediated diseases. In animal models, high intakes of omega-6 fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, are associated with tumor growth, whereas high intakes of omega-3 fatty acids diminish tumor development.  Omega-3s could have beneficial effects for horses suffering from inflammatory diseases such as heaves and osteoarthritis. Researchers have not yet determined the exact physiological mechanism to these benefits, and more research is needed to further examine flaxseed’s role in immune response.

(OK Start reading again if you skipped the section above)

Flax is also is nature’s way of dealing with sand colic, constipation, poor elimination in older horses and “runny” manure. Ground psyllium husks and ground flax seed meal are two efficient, bulk- forming ingredients that help absorb up to eight times their volume in water. Flax meal will produce feces that are soft (but not runny) and easily excreted. Unlike wheat bran flax meal will not cause nutritional deficiencies. For sand colic: flax meal forms a coating around the sand, like fruit embedded in jello, and helps to safely remove this foreign material from the body. 

Flaxseed is added to many equine and pet feeds and treats. But unfortunately, you may not be getting the best bang for your buck that way.  Typically the amount added to forages and feeds is too small to truly make an impact.  Additionally, there's no way of knowing the source of the flax,  the consistency of its growing environment, how it was processed, the way it was stored, or how old it was prior to being added to the feed. And in virtually all cases, as an additive to processed feeds and commercial supplements, the seed has been exposed to heat - the number one nutrient killer for flaxseed.   For that reason I prefer to add flax to my animals' feed myself.  That way it can be optimally sourced, stored and portioned out.  

Generally, flax comes as whole, ground (meal), cold-milled (or cold-pressed) and as a oil.

Whole flaxseed is just that.  The seed is has been harvested, dried and packed whole with no further processing.  While some disagree, many researchers believe that the whole seed is not fully digested because it is may not be chewed. When swallowed whole, the seeds pass through the digestive system without breaking down or releasing any nutrients

Ground flaxseed or flaxseed meal  has gone through a milling process that breaks down the hull and pulverizes the seed.  While this solves the problem of undigested whole seed, it creates another problem.  Unless you are grinding the flaxseed yourself, ground flaxseed starts losing its nutritional components as soon as it is exposed to air. Additionally, most commercially processed flaxseed is exposed to heat.  And as mentioned above, heat robs the seed of all the good stuff. Flaxseed meal may even have gone through a process to extract the oil as well.
The process of cold-milling or cold pressing flaxseed prevents oxidation and negative breakdown.  When cold-milled, the seed is not exposed to nutrient-robbing heat. My choice of flax,   ND Flaxmilling's Cold-pressed Flaxseed, brings the process one step further.  This proprietary milling process keeps all the nutrients and Omega-3 intact. Their process does notFl heat, hammer, grind, or separate the flax oil from the seed, providing the highest-quality Omega-3 feed that is more digestible and palatable.  ND Milling takes care to package the pressed seed immediately and stores it in a climate-controlled environment, away from heat and light.  They guarantee freshness for up to two years, provided the end user stores it in a similar fashion.
Many prefer to feed Flax Oil.  It can provide all the above nutrients and benefits, but it can be a little messy for use with horses. And due to the weight, can be cost prohibitive if you have to order it online.   However, dogs and cats may find it more palatable than ground or whole seeds. (Yes, they can benefit from it too!)

When introducing flaxseed into your horse's diet, start with just a small amount. Since it is high fat, your horse will need to adjust, otherwise he may experience extremely loose stools.  Eventually you can feed up to one pound of flax without any adverse affect.  Typically 4 to 8 ounces per day will be sufficient. You can feed it wet or dry, but do not soak it or heat it.


In closing, I will quote Kentucky Equine Research: 
"Long gone are the days of hay and oats. Examination of novel feed ingredients such as omega-3 fatty acids may pave the way for a brighter, healthier future for horses everywhere."

More info?

https://ker.com/equinews/omega-3-fatty-acids-for-horses/

CARRIER OILS - A Primary

 CARRIER OILS - WHAT TO USE?

   

 Most experts will tell you that it is best, in most but certainly not all applications, to use a carrier oil when working with Essential Oils.  True Essential Oils are extremely potent. 

Used by themselves they have the potential to be irritating, whether simply inhaled or applied to the skin. Though they are oils, most are not particularly viscous so applied alone EOs can evaporate quickly. 

    Carrier oils are plant (vegetable) oils that are used to help dilute and extend the viability of essential oils. They also help with absorption. There are many different kinds of carrier oils. Which one to use will depend on how you're planning to use your EO. You may find the chart below helpful in making your decision. No matter which one you choose, it is wise to test a small amount on your skin to be sure you are not reactive to it. 

 

Be sure to store your carrier oils properly - away from light and heat.  Heat and light can potentially cause your oil to become rancid, especially if the container has been  previously opened. Carrier oils can be refrigerated or even frozen to extend shelf life.

You can purchase carrier oils in various sizes. You may want to try out a few,  so purchase small amounts to ensure your oil doesn’t get rancid or stale.  Once you find the one that works best, you can purchase carrier oils in bulk at a greatly reduced cost.

To purchase a 4 0z bottle of Apricot Carrier Oil  click here.

Carrier Oil	Odor	Cost	Notes and observations
Fractionated Coconut Oil	None	Low	Fractionated coconut oil has been heated as part of the processing, to separate certain chains of fatty acids into components. This liquefies, refines, clarifies, stabilizes and deodorizes the oil, making it an excellent carrier oil for creams and lotions, and many other cosmetic preparations for skin and hair. Because it is chemically indifferent to other cosmetic ingredients it assists in the dispersion of pigments and other additives without altering their functionality. FCO is quickly absorbed by the skin. This ability to transport essential oils and actives makes it an oil of choice among medical practitioners and massage therapists.
Argan Oil	Medium to Strong	High	Argan Oil is a popular carrier oil when making soaps, creams and shampoos. It is rich in vitamin E, carotenes, antioxidants and essential fatty acids, is used for massage, facials and as an ingredient in anti-aging cream. It’s an excellent additive in shaving cream and post-shaving lotions. Argan oil is known to enhance the health and appearance of hair.
Apricot Kernel Oil	Mild	Low	Apricot Kernel Carrier Oil is a great all-around carrier oil.  Inexpensive, nearly odorless and is good for all skin types, lightweight and readily absorbed. It is very rich in Vitamin A and helps keep the skin hydrated.  A popular choice with massage therapists and cosmetic manufacturers.
Sweet Almond Oil	Mild	Low	Sweet Almond Carrier Oil is known for its ability to soften and re-condition the skin. It is rich in proteins, Olein Glyceride Linoleic Acid, and Vitamin D, and is very moisturizing. It has a very light, pleasant aroma.  Do not use if you have a nut allergy.
Magnesium Oil	None	Low	Magnesium oil is not really an oil, but it has the properties of oil and can be used as an odorless carrier. Best used along with other carrier oils as it may create a stinging sensation for a few minutes.  Use it in massage oils, along with your other therapeutic oils as it is known to help ease muscle pain. Also excellent for body deodorant blends.  Some experts believe that magnesium, a required mineral, is best utilized by the body when absorbed through the skin, rather than ingested.
Neem Oil	Strong	Medium	Neem is excellent for the skin, as it is high in antioxidants.  It has also been used to help treat the symptoms of eczema and psoriasis. It does have a strong odor that some find unpleasant – especially insects!  It’s an excellent insect repellent and can even upset the neurologic systems of some insects, rendering them unable to feed and breed.
Jojoba Oil	Mild to Medium	High	Not recommended for facial lotions as it can clog pores.  Jojoba is more like a liquid wax and creates a barrier or protection, so it is an excellent choice for hand lotions and hair conditioners. Can be purchased in deodorized form.
Pomace Olive Oil	None to mild	Low	Pomace olive oil is an excellent low cost choice as a carrier oil.  It is a refined oil made primarily from the leftovers of cold-pressed pure olive oil and contains very little, if any scent.
Tamanu Oil	Strong	High	Tamanu oil is touted as one of the best defenses against skin aging. Also known to help reduce the appearance of scars.  It is a thick, viscous oil with a strong, interesting scent.  Blends well with other earthy oils. Do not use if you have a nut allergy.

More Artillery for your War on Mosquitoes and Flies

This is the fourth and final post in the series on alternative approaches to fly & mosquito control on and around our horses.  Let's discuss other lines of defensive that have not been covered in previous segments of this topic.

Insect-repelling plants 

If you are so inclined, planting the following may be helpful.   Please do further research before planting in areas where horses and pets can access them to ensure they are not toxic.  It may be wise to plant them nearby, but not within reach.   

Myrtle Bush Myrtus communis is a small-leaf aromatic evergreen shrub.  Originally native to the Mediterranean, it can also be cultivated in warmer parts of North America.  Elizabeth Loftin who is an expert on the wild pones of Shackleford Banks, NC was interviewed for an article in Natural Horse magazine. 

 "Myrtle bushes are great substitutes for fly sprays and they repel fleas and ticks. You can hang the branches in stalls for the horses to naturally rub against or shuck the leaves off the branches, like shucking corn, and mix the leaves in with the regular bedding whether it's shavings, straw, or just a dirt floor. I actually rub the leaves on my horses. I scrub it into their coats like a massage and then finish with a normal grooming brush. This method not only eliminates flies, but leaves the coat shining like you won't believe! The wild mustangs of Shackleford Banks taught me this one. They groom themselves naturally in the myrtle bush groves on the island."  source  

Mint and its cousin, Basil are strong aromatic plants that deter insects.  Both are super easy to grow and you can use them in your kitchen as well! 

Citronella -  I researched this until my eyes bled.  We know that citronella in its concentrated oil form does in fact repel mosquitoes.  Depending on who you ask, Citronella plants may or may not be effective.  For every piece of information I read supporting the theory, there was one which refuted it.  My best advice for this?  Plant your own and see if they help. 

Fly Parasites

Many horse owners swear by fly predators, and for good reason.  They do help, IF you follow the directions and as long as any other horse owner within a quarter-mile of your place uses them as well.   These tiny wasps (don't worry, they don't bite or sting) lay their eggs on the cocoon of a developing fly.  When the wasp larva emerge for their eggs they dine on the developing fly.   You can subscribe to a fly parasite service  such as Spaulding or Arbico that will send you fresh pupae monthly through fly season.

Insect Growth Regulators

An IGR, such a cyromazine, is a feed-through that is beneficial once it is passed through with manure.  IGR’s work by disrupting the pupal stage of the fly’s life cycle, by preventing the fly’s exoskeleton from forming properly and thereby killing them. In order for IGR to be most effective, you will want to feed it to all horses at your barn.

You are what you eat -  One theory suggests that if your horse's blood sugar is elevated, he is more attractive to biting flies and mosquitoes.  I can't speak to the validity, but it would seem to make sense to me.  If we feed garlic and apple cider vinegar to horses to make them LESS attractive to flies, then why wouldn't it be the same of fly attractants such as sweet feed, sugary processed horse treats .  Check the starch and sugar content of the feed, including your hay.

Practice Good Barn Hygiene

Flies and other pests can't breed if they don't have the proper place to lay their eggs.  By keeping your barn and paddocks free of manure, wet bedding and standing water, you will creat a less-inviting environment for these unwanted visitors.  

• If you have a manure pile, locate it well away from the barn area.  

• Remove manure and soiled bedding as often as possible, two or three times a day in the summer months is not a bad idea, if you are available to do so but at the very least daily.

• Remove wet hay - biting flies actually prefer laying their eggs in wet hay!

• Look around for standing water.  Even the smallest amount of standing water can become a nursery for mosquitoes.  Dump it out and invert anything that can collect rain water.

• Spread ground limestone (lime) (calcium oxide) to deodorize and help manure break down more quickly

• Spread diatomaceous earth to help kill off pests (keep in mind this practice can kill beneficial insects too so be mindful of where you spread it)

• Feed FOOD GRADE diatomaceous earth to your horse. Not only does this help with internal parasites, when passed through the system with manure, it will deter flies from laying eggs and/or kill the larvae. Be sure it's the type that is for human or livestock consumption, such as Red Lake .

• Keep the feed room swept, close up grain bags/bins.  Wash feed buckets often.  Daily if you feed a mash.

DON'T KILL YOUR ALLIES!

Some of the insects we see in and around our barns are quite beneficial.  

Yellow Dung Fly -  The yellow  or golden dung fly is a welcome visitor. According to one source, it is the most abundant fly in North America, though I saw more of these when I lived in Maine than I do here in Florida.  Females are a dull yellow or brown, males are more vividly colored.  They resemble bees to a degree, but are more "fly shaped."The female dung fly will lay her eggs in fresh manure.  When the larvae hatch, they feed on the manure and help speed decomposition.   Adult dung flies eat other fly species.  So here you have a double-duty insect ally!

Dung Beetle - Have you ever watched a large black beetle rolling a piece of poop along?  Let her alone.  She is bringing home dinner to her offspring.  This industrious beetle will bury the dung ball and lay her legs on it. When the larvae hatch, dinner is served.

There are actually several species of dung beetles, generally grouped as Rollers, Tunnelers or Dwellers.  Each name is self-explanatory.  According to one source a dung beetle can bury up to 250 times its weight in dung in one night!

Check out this link for more interesting information on dung beetles!  

Horse Guard Wasp -  These beneficial wasps range from Pennsylvania to Florida and west to Oklahoma.  When I first saw this insect buzzing loudly and slowly around my horses, I thought it was a horse fly and would include these as targets in my quest to eliminate pests.  My farrier corrected me one day, calling them "gaurd flies" and explained that they were excellent fly hunters. This extremely helpful wasp can take up to 60 flies for each of her eggs, which she lays in separate holes in the ground.  (It's a little morbid to think about her paralyzing the fly and then enclosing it with her egg in the chamber, to be food for the hatching larva, but that's how nature sometimes works).  I now respectfully welcome these wasps.  They are not particularly aggressive and the horses seem to know they are there to help.

Dragonflies -- Oh how I love to see the calvary arrive!  I usually see these "angels of mercy" (or "death" depending on your perspective) in small squadrons, darting around like Snoopy and the Red Baron taking aim at as many mosquitoes as they can gulp down.  Dragonfly larvae are aquatic, just like their favorite dish - mosquito larvae - and can live in the larva stage for as long as six years.  Not only are dragonflies welcome allies in the barnyard and backyard, but they are often considered messengers for our dear, departed loved ones.  How cool are dragonflies? check out more interesting dragonfly facts here.

In the quest to help rid our barns and horses of pesky stable flies, biting flies, mosquitoes and ticks, a lot of it can be trial and error.  What works for one kind of insect may not work for another.  Since many of these pest have seasonal peaks, we will need to constantly switch out our lines of defense. Keep in mind, (as one of my favorite horsemen mentioned) everything in life needs constant adjustment to adapt to the current situation.  So be prepared with multi-prong plan as you head into battle.


Happy Trails, 

Bella

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